A Commission with Hannah Bedford

Renowned for her granulation jewellery, Hannah Bedford fuses new technology and ancient craft techniques to create distinctive designs. Her process requires great skill, precision and a meditative-like patience. Over the past few months Hannah has worked on a recycling commission project with Lyndsay, who wanted to re-work a piece of gold jewellery she had recently inherited from her great aunt. Remodelling factors into many of the pieces that Hannah is commissioned to create. As was the case with Lyndsay’s collection of jewellery, Hannah takes unworn pieces of jewellery and gives them a new lease of life, melting them down and transforming them into a beautiful piece of her signature granulation jewellery.

Lyndsay’s ring: 18ct yellow gold

Below, Lyndsay speaks about why she decided to recycle a piece of family jewellery, and how the process of working with Hannah developed.

I recently inherited a small collection of jewellery from my great aunt. She lived in California for most of her life and so sadly much of the family history surrounding these items has been lost. Although this jewellery is of an older style and not something that I would tend to wear, it possesses a family connection and therefore I wasn’t keen to sell or leave it languishing at the back of a jewellery box.

I met Hannah at Elements some time ago and I found her jewellery incredibly beautiful, particularly her granulation work which struck a chord with me. Through general conversations I was pleased to learn that she was happy to re-work older jewellery therefore turning old into new but still retaining the sentimental connection. I am also conscious of the circular economy, ethical making and the longevity of material culture is important to me. Choosing the new item of jewellery was easy as I had coveted Hannah’s gold granule hoops for long time. I thoroughly enjoyed the whole process and applaud jewellers willing to recycle precious metal. 

Annealing metal and opening up the ring

Below, Hannah discusses aspects of her technique and the development of commission projects.

I am often approached by clients who have unworn jewellery or heirloom stones which they would like transformed into a new piece of jewellery.  I can work with clients precious metal to melt down and re-work it into something completely new.  Initially we will have a meeting, either in person or via phone/video where they can have a look at my collection and we will chat through the designs they are interested in. I will have a look at their metal or stones and will make suggestions to the most appropriate design and possibilities.  After this initial meeting I will send over a quote and design for them to approve.  One of the lovely things about this process is that I can document it step by step, so clients can see the transformation take place.

Drawing the gold down to a smaller gauge and Hannah working at the bench to pull the wire down to correct gauge

Getting the gold longer and beginning to shape the hoops

The great thing about the granulation process is that I have to melt down precious metal to create the granules, so re-working clients existing metal naturally lends itself to this.  It doesn’t add in an extra step in my process and means that clients can continue to wear their material in a new way.  Often the pieces will have huge sentimental value, which really adds to the significance of what I am doing.  In the past I have combined three generations of wedding rings to create a new wedding ring set.  It is fantastic being able to create pieces imbued with such personal meaning.

The whole process can be done in studio, where I will melt down the metal and then re-form it using my drawer bench and rolling mill.  The processes involved are really hands on and appeal to me – one of the reasons I love metal is that it is so malleable and you can change its shape and form so easily.  Gold is a wonderful material to work with and this transformative process is very exciting and satisfying.

Shaping the hoops

Shaping the hoops and preparing the granules on a charcoal block

Granulation is an ancient jewellery technique, which dates back over 5000 years.  Designs from the Eturia are particularly famous for their granulation.  The process involves adorning jewellery with fine granules of precious metal.

I handcraft each granule on a charcoal block before they are cleaned and individually applied to form my designs.  The bonding of these minute precious granule requires skill and precision, a careful steady hand and, above all, patience.

My signature style is influenced by organic growth and the movement of water.  I am always looking for new ways to embellish my pieces with delicate droplets of gold.  Contrasting precious metals and the combination of statement stones add tone and richness to this aesthetic.

Earrings being cleaned and the finished piece

Lyndsay visited Elements Fair last November, where she saw the Granule Hoops I had on display.  We had a chat about how I can re-use the gold she had to create a new piece of jewellery.  Lyndsay got in touch this year to organise having the earrings made. It was a really enjoyable process re-working the gold for Lyndsay in this way.

Hannah is one of 57 makers taking part in this years’ Elements: A Festival of Jewellery, Silver and Gold. You can learn more about Hannah at @hannahbedfordjewellery on Instagram and hannahbedford.co.uk.

Images and video courtesy of Hannah Bedford