Ellis Mhairi Cameron creates fine jewellery with a specific ethos in mind—a belief in the beauty of imperfection, hand craftsmanship and a desire to create beautifully made jewellery that can be handed down through the generations. We are delighted to welcome Ellis for her first year of Elements, and to bring you behind the scenes for a more in-depth look into Ellis’ work and process.

Creating jewellery which is organic, yet eminently wearable, Ellis’ work stems from an interest in how our identities are influenced by our specific locations and how this forms social heritage. Place and space are at the core of her inspiration, as she recalls ‘Growing up in the Highlands of Scotland, I fell in love with its’ history—the ancient buildings, the rugged sea scape and the many artefacts and jewellery hoards which have been found buried within the earth’. As her technique and craft have continued to develop, she draws inspiration from the historical relationship Scotland has with talismans—these are significant objects created throughout Scotland’s history and worn as forces of protection, as well as aesthetic beauty.

In her newest pieces, Ellis continually works from a circle shape as a key feature of her work. This draws from the symbolism of the Scottish Gaelic word ‘caim’. Originally translated to mean ‘sanctuary,’ a caim was an invisible circle of safety, drawn around the body with the hand as a reminder of being watched over and cared for, even in the bleakest of times. Drawing inspiration from ancient Scottish jewellery, Ellis’ work reflects the symbolism of circular form as representing strength and courage.

Is there a specific trip or moment of inspiration you recall that inspired you to create with the idea of Scottish heritage and ancient jewellery hoards in mind?

To be honest, there is not one particular instance, but many smaller moments. I have always been fascinated by the history of the landscape. I find looking at ancient ruins, or researching jewellery and object hoards so interesting, as it gives us a glimpse into the past. I am really interested in how our identities are influenced by the specific locations we live in and how this forms our social heritage. Throughout history, regardless of country or continent, you can see that ancient cultures have always adorned their bodies, even in very primitive times. A big focus of my research is exploring the reasoning behind why we wear jewellery and the symbolism and sentiment that a piece of jewellery can hold.

In ancient Scottish jewellery, the circle is used continuously as an emblem for strength and courage. Historically, a circular form was worn on the body to act as a protective amulet, as it was believed to represent wholeness, community and a connection to the greater cosmos.

Due to the heavy symbolism it has carried throughout history, the circle shape has been a key feature within my newest pieces.

It’s really important to me to make sure that my pieces are not only aesthetic, but also stem from a narrative. At the foundation of my practice is a belief in the beauty of imperfection, hand craftsmanship and a desire to provide clients with beautifully made fine jewellery, which can be handed down through the generations.

This inspiration lends itself to the process of creating for Ellis, making each piece by hand in her London studio from recycled gold and traceable diamonds using traditional techniques and hand skills such as hand carving and casting.

How does your process of designing a new piece begin?

I always start with a quick sketch, prior to modelling in wax. Moving from 2d into 3d really helps me understand how the piece will look when worn. This allows me to understand the aesthetics, but also how comfortable the piece will be, and make any adjustments to weight or design. Once I am happy with the piece, it is then cast in gold. This is a very sculptural process and modelling in wax helps me understand the physicality of the jewellery design I am working on.

Is there a technique you feel is at the core of your making process?

Wax carving is definitely key to my work as this is how I form the initial shape of the jewellery piece. When it is translated into metal, I then work into the metal with different burrs and tools, to highlight areas and remind textures. I like that this process is very organic. Although I can of course replicate a specific design, no two will ever be exactly alike; each one will have its own intricacies and details.

Tell us a bit about the recycled gold and diamonds you use. What made you decide to use these materials, and how does this material choice influence your ethos and the work you create?

I think that as an independent designer, it’s important to know where my materials come from. I believe in the idea of slow fashion; shopping independent, buying well and made to last pieces. Transparency and accountability are important to me. When I started working in diamonds and gold, it was an easy choice to use recycled gold and traceable diamonds as I want to be able to tell my customers about the origins of my materials.

In keeping with this ethos, I am also more than happy to rework inherited gold and heirloom diamonds into new pieces. I find redesigning jewellery very satisfying, as often they have been sat in a drawer, unworn for years, so it is amazing to rework these pieces into jewellery that can be worn and enjoyed. I work predominantly in gold and diamonds, not only for their beauty, but for their longevity. I believe that jewellery should not be left only for special occasions, but worn and enjoyed every day, to eventually be passed down through the generations.

To learn more about Ellis Mhairi Cameron and her work, you can find her at @ellismhairicameron on Instagram and ellismhairicameron.com. Ellis is one of fifty makers from across the UK taking part in this years’ digital Elements: A Festival of Jewellery, Silver and Gold.

Images courtesy of Ellis Mhairi Cameron